2° Spain: Why the Basques are already independent : Colmado Ibérico

(Reminder: see the first blog (the bucket list of terms) for vocabulary questions, usually marked with *)

Date: 23 Feb. 2011

Bar:

Colmado Ibérico

Alameda de Urquijo, 20

48008 Bilbao

Telephone: 94 443 60 01

http://www.colmadoiberico.com/

(open Monday to Saturday from 7:30am to 12:00am)

MPS*:

930pm. Walking 5-8 minutes from the Gran Via, the location isn’t ideally located for the common visitor as it isn’t in an area especially pintxoesque at a point on Urquijo avenue that is inconvenient for the average short-legged picoteo’er; that being said, you’re likely find a more genuine crowd here of real Bilbainos and neighborhood city catz.

I went through a phase in which Colmado Ibérico was my regular hangout. Its selection of ham pintxos and wines ranks with the finest of Bilbao. Tonight is no exception except that it’s Wednesday. I realize this is a Monday blog, but after many a Monday spent skulking here in vino soaked conversations at the back table I figured I could see the place in new light to inspire my review, hence tonight’s Wednesday critique.

  

On a Wednesday as opposed to a Monday, the crowd is twice or more the size, therefore getting to the bar with such a boisterous group of Txikiteros* is not easy, and the bar is much less intimate. Just the way a good pintxo bar should be. While the Monday scene isn’t as impressive it’s got perfect ambience to relax and enjoy tranquility’s pintxo savoring.

Pintxos: Decisively delicious tossing out any extravagance – overall rating: 3.5 of 5

3.5 of 5: ‘Murciélago’ o ‘Mariposa’: €1.90; The Bat or Butterfly, choose your title for whichever mood you find yourself in:

Did I mention the lack of elegance before? Well, this little dandy might not be elegant enough to fly but its naive creativity soars. Okay, as lame as it looks, taste isn’t based on looks alone. Look into the heart of the creation and you’ll find a nicely warmed mushroom breaded and filled with a mashed potato base (croquette style) for your taste buds to ponder. The crispy wings are fried potato slices, like a chip except homemade. Add some diced cured ham bits and chives, put it on a slice of typical baguette bread and Voila! The Butterfly!

3 of 5: Sautéed flat mushroom topped with Iberian ham bits €1.60; Simple and effective

3 of 5: ‘Bacalau a pilpil* con pimiento rojo’ / Codfish served Basque style with a slice of similarly cooked red pepper €1.60

It’s a must when trying Basque cuisine.

4 of 5: Pan integral, jamon y pimiento verde/Iberian ham and green pepper served on a mini whole grain bun: €1.90

An award winning classic for the bar

Wine: 4 of 5

Cillar de Silos

Ribera del Duero

€19.90/bottle

Fine wine, upper tier; not to be lapped up; let its full-body galore sweep you off from banalities and provoke a meaningful chat than a politicians’ twitter scandal

The wine selection is great here; the house wine is LAN, a much more economical and not a bad choice for pintxo grubbing.

Service: 3.5 of 5:

No strangers to good ratings, as the Michelin guide will tell you, the bar staff is friendly and knowledgeable.

Ambiance: 4 of 5:

This is where I explain Basque independence and my thoughts on it:

I come to a bar with an in-service pata de jamón*, local cheeses and wine counter (to sell products representing many parts of Spain); pintxos lining the bar; conversations abound from a crowd ranging from new born to 80+ (virtually every generation represented in one sitting); and a yankee taking pictures of the ruckus and then tell me that the Basque country isn’t already independent from anywhere else on earth. My task isn’t to write only about Spain or Basque food, but I can already tell my next stops won’t be so delectable.

Price: 3.5 of 5:

€1.60 to €1.90 per pintxo.

In general pintxos rarely reach above €2 unless they are of decorate elaboration. The pintxos in Colmado aren’t greatly elaborated and coupled with the location issue, I would expect to find the prices lower. However, they have a fame of being an award eatery in the infamous Michelin travel guide thus letting them push price bar up a bit.

Colmados prices translate to: pintxos with the lowest average price from all the bars I’ve been to (= €1.60) to just as high as a snobby rut (= €1.90). What you aren’t paying for is a snobbish crowd to go along and that I can appreciate.

Opinion: 4 of 5

I can come back here without feeling guilty because each time I’ve come I get the same standard treatment and product. It’s not a wave-like mess of good or bad, and, frankly, I like unvarying service. I know what to expect and prepare for. I’ll keep this place in my back pocket as a backup for any night I’m feeling too tired to go on a search.

1° Spain: 'Bikini de Rabo' = Tail Bikini??? Bitoque

14 Feb. 2011 Bilbao, Spain

(Reminder: see the first blog (the bucket list of terms) for vocabulary questions, usually marked with *)

Bar:

BITOQUE DE ALBIA
+34 944236545
Alameda Mazarredo nº6
48001 Bilbao-Bizkaia

http://www.bitoque.net/web/?page_id=6

open until 11pm weekdays, 12am weekends, closed Sunday

MPS*:

930pm. Tired and starved I am irritable and critical of service and wait times. Managed to forget my ‘merienda* apple’ so I haven’t had a bite to eat since 1:30 this afternoon.

It’s Valentine’s Day in a non-Valentine’s celebrating country (don’t see why not, they celebrate every other saint’s day, but St. Patrick and St. Valentine are almost bitterly repulsed as being ‘foreign holidays’). Bars should be unusually busy on a Monday due to the mock-holiday/“fiesta de Corte Ingles*.”

Having scoped out Bitoque in its new location the days prior to selection, my hunger wouldn’t allow me to wander far so the 3 block walk (one block off the main road, Gran Via) convinced me it was the perfect local to start with

Pintxos: creative and tasty – overall rating: 4 of 5

3.5 of 5: ‘Cochonillo Asado con Mermelara (maybe a tyepo for ‘mermelada’ or marmalade) de Cítricos’ / Roast Suckling Pig with Citrus Marmalade

Smelled as one would expect pork to smell, unseasoned and dull, but when eaten together with the marmalade and a leafy green complement became an explosion of agreeable flavor. The marmalade was natural and thick with pieces of citrusy orange and not so jelly-e

4.5 of 5: ‘Huevo a 65º a la Brasa con pimientos y jamon’ : Poached Egg at 65° (I assume it refers to Celcius here) with Peppers and Ham garnish

Perhaps the most creative of the pintxos, it came in a glass presenting layers perceived as if a thick coagulated grease, adding to the effect of a disgusting presentation was the glob of egg sitting on top of the concoction and a thin leafy potato chip like garnish, that I thought might have been for scooping. It turned out to be a solid salty base for the unsalted egg. The grease-like appearance was fresh yucca, a satisfying plus. Although not my favorite taste-wise, the unique appearance and exceptional flavor were a combination yet to be equaled in my search for the perfect pintxo.

3.5 of 5: Sushi de Roast Beef, Algas y Wasabe / Roast Beef California Rolls with Algae

Simple yet original for a Basque pintxo; fresh; the presentation was perhaps the best part.

4 of 5: Foie Fresco con Espárrago y Jugo Meloso / Fresh Foie with Asparagus and sweet nectar sauce served on small toasted bread

A foie pintxo is no stranger in the Basque lineup, many bars claim the best in Euskadi* and Bitoque’s stood the test with a near perfect biting consistency and a mix of flavors satisfying any ‘gras-lover’s’ palate.

*The menu is not static; therefore the pintxos I ordered may or may not appear on a current menu

Wine: 4 of 5

Marqués de Vitoria

If I were a wino I might note the pungent fruity aroma, murky ruby shimmer, and strong lingering finish. But I am just an apprentice, so I’ll call it a ‘give-in’ wine, it’s of high quality which speaks for itself.  

Service: 3.5 of 5

When stepping out who doesn’t like to be catered to? I know as my hunger grew that’s what I wanted. I wasn’t looking for crowds and I didn’t want a wait. Upon entering I was a bit dumbfounded as to whether I could seat myself in the ‘private-looking’ dining area or if I’d have to muscle it up to an open bar space. After an awkward entry pause and a no indication on where to go or what to do from the staff, my colleague and I nudged ourselves towards the more personal dining area. This maneuver seems unfruitful at first but paid off in the end (noticed we were taking notes) as we were treated to explanations and a more visual look into the creativity behind pintxos. Our plates were hustled off rather quickly, which one might find bothersome if they are looking for tranquility.    

Ambiance: 4 of 5

Hip to funky. Music from Jazz to Elvis to a Rocky beat but thought out not your simple Top 40, with the occasional awkward silence of a bad track; younger well-dressed patrons, a few of those V-day couples; clean and classy black and white décor

Price: 3 of 5; paying for class

Higher end on the price scale at €3.50 average per pintxo; if it’s a special occasion or you need a sleek date spot looking to impress this is your place

Opinion: 4 of 5

I have known of this place almost since I arrived in Bilbao over 2 1/2 years ago and before they opened in this new location right off Bilbao’s Gran Via (very conveniently located) and what it has to offer hasn’t disappointed me yet. The mellow ‘moderno’* crowds inspire impromptu artsy conversation. The wine and pintxo list extends beyond the Monday night critique, and a return visit is a must if not a give-in –- although opting for a night in which I wasn't hungry, as it can get rather busy and the service isn't ‘lickety-split Americano want a good tip kind.’ 

the bucket list of terms, translations, and the meaning of it all

Of the three primal urges that come to my mind first, the wanton lust of the palate is debatably the least objectionable to write about. Thus begins this scribbling quest to flesh out the a placater of concupiscible sustenance and desire for the flesh of a grape; the 'where?'/'how?' as to locate that perfect hangout of calm repose or maniacal debauchery.

This blog is a tool for the famished traveler or common ”picoteo’er”* (see TOGG List below) alike. As its primary aim is to help fill the belly of its reader according to their tastes and interests, it also hopes to teach a thing or two extra.

It has been a Monday night project (Monday being a true test of an establishment’s dedication to patron’s palates…and service). Likewise this first post serves as the map key to deciphering any hard to understand terminology or Blog jargon. If anything remains unclear this is where you should complain. 

Scoring

·         Rating system is scaled from 1 to 5 scale (1 being the lowest)

o   0 – Unscoreable         /  Inedible

o   1 – Lacks that umph     /  Taste is nominal

o   2 – Standard derivation /  Aimed to satiate not impress

o   3 – Standout but Outstanding?  /  Good but not memorable

o   4 – Calls to my attention / Tastes like a angel

o   5 – To top this I’d need a bigger scale  / My mouth never felt so loved  

Terms of EnGorGement or TOGG List (periodically updated for useful interpretation):

·       

·         Caña – (ka-awn-nuh): That’s Español for the brew you ask for whilst wetting whistle and downing pintxos. And you thought you’d get away with knowing just ‘cerveza.’ Nope. It’s not a pint, that’s for the ‘guiris.’ It’s 8oz or half a pint of tap beer. Not impressed? Check out the ‘zurito’ below.

·         

·         Confit de pato/ Duck confit– Originally a French dish made with duck leg, cured in salt and garlic (sometimes other herbs). Nice and tender. 

·         DO or Domination Nation of Origin (califcada): Areas regulated by a governing body so that the production of wine within adheres to certain standards. Each DO is different and can vary in standards; there are two in Spain that are recognized as ‘quality’ Do’s the Rioja, Priorat, and Ribera del Duero. The Rioja tends to be the most well known among the three and produces some of Spain’s best wines. Though it is not wise to consider a wine good just because it is from the DO Rioja, wine personality depends on much more than a name.

·         Euskadi – (Eww-ska-dee): Basque word for the Basque Country, a region that includes the 4 provinces that make up the Spanish Basque Country of the 7 Euskal Herria provinces. Also known as País Vasco.

·         Euskal Herria – (Eww-skal-Aird-ee-ah): Tierra de los vascos or Basque Land made up of 7 provinces of two main areas: Hegoalde or southern Basque Country in Spain is made up of four of the provinces: Bizkaia, Gipuzkoa, Araba, and Nafarroa and Iparralde or northern Basque Country in France is made up of the remaining three: Lapurdi, Nafarroa Beherea, and Zuberoa.

·         Euskera – (Eww-scare-ah) : Basque for ‘Basque language;’ other spellings: Eusquera, Vascuence, Vasco, Éuscaro, Vascongado or Vizcaíno

·         Fiesta de Corte Inglés – (fee-s-ta day core-tay in-gless): literally ‘English Cut Holiday’ it refers to any foreign holiday brought to Spain by ever-growing consumerism brought on by globalism; ‘El Corte Inglés’ or The English Cut (as in look) is Spain’s biggest chain of department stores set up much like Macy’s in the U.S. with many brands and diverse departments.

·         Guiri[s] – (G-ee-rd-ee-z): Ever heard of ‘Haole?’ How about ‘tourist,’ ‘foreigner,’ or ‘stranger (some more that others).’ Can be derogatory when used in a harsh tone and proceeded by another, often curse, word, but usually it’s just the term the locals in Baskonia (the Basque Country) call visitors.

·         Merienda – (merry-end-ah): The afternoon snack. Since the typical Spanish lunch falls around 2:30 in the afternoon and the dinner not until 9, the ‘merienda’ is a handy way to not get cranky around co-workers. A typical ‘merienda’ timetable being between 5:30 and 7:30pm.

·         Moderno – (mo-dare-no): too fashion conscious/rather spend  money on clothes than pintxos

·         MPS or my  Monday Personal Status – How I’m feeling. It’s important to note any personal qualms that are circling my mind that might affect the score I give; therefore the MPS provides a bit of background to the environment in which I find myself and helps the reader imagine the mood.

·         Picar – (peek-ar) : verb meaning to dine on starters/pintxos; what ‘picoteo’ers’ do; Me gustaría unas aceitunas para picar – I’d like some olives to start.

·         Picoteo - (peek-o-tay-oh) : The practice common in Basque Country, Spain and more broadly in Northern Spain to go from bar to bar and eat pintxos. The ritual is comprised of entering a bar and asking for a drink, usually wine or small beer, and just grabbing a pintxo which are laid out on the bar. When you’ve finished you tell the bartender what you’ve had in a ‘customer-bartender trust’ that you will pay for what you’ve taken. The practice is of the dying sort, as dishonest practice is stifling a culture once extending throughout the Iberian Peninsula, but still well-alive in País Vasco.  

·         Picoteo’ers – (peek-o-tay’ ers) : Englishized version of of the Spanish word in the Basque Country for someone who goes bar-in-bar infusing his or her taste buds with delectable Basque delicacies such as vino and pintoxs and conversation; a type of sport of sorts, an afternoon glimpse into any Basque plaza and one can visibly note the professionalism and dedication to the Picoteo still today.

·         Pintxo – (peen-cho)(also written as pincho in Spanish):  Essentially the Northern Spanish/Basque Country cuisine like the Spanish ‘tapa,’ but usually smaller and more elaborated little morsels to quench hunger much like the before meal appetizer. The tapa is served with a drink, sometimes gratuito (free of charge), while the pintxo is ‘pinched’ off the bar (origin of the word is from the action of staking the morsel with a toothpick like stick to pick it up); when it comes to taste, and three years living in País Basco, I will show little reluctance in saying that the art of pintxo here in Euskadi is unlike anything you will find in any other part of Spain, and attention to taste buds is a forte among the Basque.

·         Tapa – (Tah-pah): the more commonly known Spanish cuisine dish, not to be mistaken for pintxo. More typical in Southern Spain, usually bigger than the pintxo, also more commonly eaten with knife and fork, while the pintxo is stuck with a stick and the explosion of flavor would be too much to handle if made any bigger.  

·         Tapenade – (French pronunciation: [tapənad]) is a dish typical of south France consisting of puréed or finely chopped olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil. It is sometimes eaten as a spread on bread.

·         Wine: Quicky Guide to red Spanish wines:

• Crianza – (Kree-ann-thah)(Kree-ann-sah): (depending on its DO specifications) Is the term for wines aged for 2 years, at least 6 months of which is spent in a cask/barrel usually made from French or American oak.  These wine are usually darker hues of deep red or purple and have a fruity taste with just hints of the oak.
• Reserva  – (depending on its DO specifications) is the term  for wines that have been aged 3 years with at least  1 year in an oak cask. As the wines ages the deep hues begin to lighten and one can see an orangey tint to them when held at an angle in the light. They have a notable woody taste which most winos will call body, hence reservas are said to have a more ‘full-body’ taste than the younger crianzas. They are also usually higher priced than the crianzas.
• Gran Reserva – (depending on its DO specifications) are very elaborated wines typically selected from above average vintages and require at least 5 years of ageing, 18 months of which in oak and another minimum of 36 months in the bottle. *Not your usual everyday ‘picoteo’ wine.
• Whites and Rosés:
• Crianza whites and rosés must be aged for at least 1 year with at least 6 months in the barrel oak.
• Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 2 years with at least 6 months in barrels.
• Gran Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 years with at least 6 months in barrels

Zurito – (thoo-ree-toe)(soo-ree-toe): Might be the mightiest way to look like a Spaniard while renouncing your man/womanhood. That’s right, I don’t even know the purpose it serves, but if you want a sip of ‘cerveza’ these 4oz of pale ale just might give you that… or an open palmed slap in the face by any non-Spaniard. It’s not that we’re insensitive to culture, it’s that you’re drinking a 4oz beer and we are too dumb (or bright) to see the point; might as well ask for an O’Doul’s, at least you can pretend to be a real man/woman drinking it. Get my drift?


not a zurito

Locations: